Lodgings Elsewhere

TRAVEL AND LODGING INFORMATION

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Lodgings Elsewhere in France

Every year when we go to Provence we also travel for a week or so around various regions of France, staying in Bed and Breakfast Inns that we find in such guides as Fodor's Bed and Breakfasts of Character and Charm in France. Here are some that we have found particularly delightful.

Le Moulin de Poilly-sur-Serein (Yonne)

The last time we were in France we rented a car in Paris and drove down to Provence. Our plan was to drive a relatively short distance the first day (knowing we would be tired from the flight) and then to drive on to Provence the following day. This worked so well that we made the same stop on the way back to Paris and we'll do it again on our next trip. We had the good luck to find the perfect place to stay that first night, Le Moulin de Poilly-sur-Serein in northern Burgundy, just 180 kilometers from Paris. Robert and Yvette Gilles have renovated a large and beautiful old mill at the edge of a small village, turning it into a wonderful five room B&B. They'll greet you with a glass of the excellent local Chablis, and later feed you a delicious dinner, the perfect thing for semi-exhausted travelers. See their website for photos and details (www.lemoulindepoilly.com).

Le Moulin Neuf (Dordogne)

Located near the beautiful village of Limeuil, which overlooks the confluence of the Vezère and Dordogne Rivers, this lovely B&B is run by two English expatriates, Robert Chappell and Stuart Shippey, who work overtime to make you feel comfortable and at home. The setting is park-like, with a stream, a pond, and a grand expanse of lawn; the rooms are tastefully decorated and immaculate; the breakfasts are ample and delicious; and the prices are very reasonable. Tel: 05 53 63 30 18. Fax: 05 53 73 33 91. http://www.the-moulin-neuf.com/index.html

Domaine de la Serenite (Gard)

Catherine L'Helgoualch gives you a warm welcome and a fabulous breakfast in this elegantly restored 18th century townhouse in the village of Barjac, a few kilometers south of the beautiful Ardeche River. The rooms are spacious and tastefully furnished with antiques, and the views from the rooms and the terrace are superb, looking across a broad, cultivated valley to the ridges of the Cevennes mountains. Tel: 04 66 24 54 63. http://www.la-serenite.fr/en/index.php

L'Orée des Vignes (Nievre)

In the Loire Valley near Sancerre and Cosne-sur-Loire, this B&B in a remodeled farmhouse is distinguished by its peaceful rural setting, its comfortable rooms (and sparkling bathrooms), its excellent dinners (table d'hote), and the exceptional friendliness of hosts Marie-Noelle and Michel Kandin. At dinner, hosts sat down with guests and we all had a rollicking good time, with lively conversations in both French and English. Tel. and Fax: 03 86 28 12 50. http://www.loreedesvignes.com/

Vilherols (Aveyron)

This is the home of Jean Laurens, situated in a hamlet of beautiful stone houses and barns built up by his family over a period of two-hundred years. A farmer with 60 cows, M. Laurens has also found time to create several comfortable guest rooms. He and his daughter, Marie, entertained us with their stories of life in the region and gave us good advice about where to eat and what to see. The surrounding landscape, at 800 meters elevation, is lush and beautiful, and the nearby hilltown of Vallon is a hidden jewel. Vilherols is located between Entraygues and Mur-de-Barrez, near the village of Lacroix-Barrez and not far from the Gorges de la Truyère. Tel: 05 65 66 08 24; Fax: 05 65 66 19 98. http://www.gite-vilherols.net/

Hotel de Garlande (Avignon)

This is a comfortable, inexpensive hotel located in the heart of Avignon, near the Place de l'Horloge. We have stayed here when we had to catch an early train to Paris, or when we were too exhausted from our trip from California to make the final push, by bus, to Lourmarin. The hotel is small (12 rooms) and Madame Michelotte is a gracious and thoughtful hostess. Tel: 04 90 80 08 85; Fax: 04 90 27 16 58. http://www.hoteldegarlande.com/